For a Taste of Ancient Peruvian Cooking, Head to Vermont

Thousands of miles from its place of origin, pachamanca — a centuries-old form of underground cooking — gets a spotlight.

Credit…Video by Kelly Burgess

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By Priya Krishna

ANDOVER, Vt. The scent of mint and smoke erupted from the pit in the earth.

The cooks worked hastily but methodically, placing layers of potatoes, carrots, squash, fava beans, pork butt, chicken quarters, lamb shoulder, herbs and humitas — sweetened, spiced corn wrapped in husks — and separating the ingredients with hot stones that let out a gratifying sizzle whenever food kissed their surfaces.

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