{"id":117263,"date":"2023-08-30T10:50:17","date_gmt":"2023-08-30T10:50:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blogcamlodipine.com\/?p=117263"},"modified":"2023-08-30T10:50:17","modified_gmt":"2023-08-30T10:50:17","slug":"how-a-simple-mistake-by-me-during-diy-caused-eps-failure-on-my-tiago","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blogcamlodipine.com\/auto-news\/how-a-simple-mistake-by-me-during-diy-caused-eps-failure-on-my-tiago\/","title":{"rendered":"How a simple mistake by me during DIY caused EPS failure on my Tiago"},"content":{"rendered":"
BHPian lemedico <\/strong>recently shared this with other enthusiasts.<\/p>\n My 2021 Tiago AMT one morning gave me a massive sulk. I fired her up and after slotting into Drive, the wheel wouldn’t turn as it did. It was ancient truck-like and impossible to even drive up to my mechanic’s garage.<\/p>\n I have been an avid DIYer and I got around to fixing it immediately. One thing was for sure, there were no rat bites. I had already rummaged around the cabin and engine compartment to look for obvious signs of rodents.<\/p>\n There weren’t any fault codes or warning lamps on my OBD2 scanner or instrument console respectively. This was very weird indeed.<\/p>\n A few youtube video searches gave me diagnoses ranging from oil leak, and sensor failure to steering rack replacement and whatnot.<\/p>\n A few months ago, I created a rear 12v power socket for this car.<\/p>\n I had then fuse tapped the EPAS {electronic power steering assist} fuse for the wiring. Just last night, I had used my tyre inflator to top up air and I suspected maybe that did some damage.<\/p>\n I opened up the cabin fuse compartment, whacked out the fuse tap and voila, there was a blown EPAS 5A fuse! I was very relieved to see the damage was minor and not youtube grade destructive.<\/p>\n There are spare fuses in the engine fuse compartment. I simply swapped it out and the job was done. Lesson learnt, not to use such high voltage accessories in the rear socket.<\/p>\n Have a look at this video I recorded for your better understanding of the task<\/p>\n Here’s what BHPian Reinhard <\/strong>had to say on the matter:<\/p>\n This is a bit odd. If there was extra current drawn by the accessory socket – the fuse for the accessory should have blown in the tap (i.e. the one on top), not the EPAS fuse. I wonder why that happened. Was this the first time that you used that newly added socket? I wonder in case there was a short somewhere in the tap already.<\/p>\n Also – if the accessories that you intend to connect to that socket are powerful enough to draw more than 5Amp – you should ideally use a different primary fuse socket, that supports 10 or 15 Amp on Ignition mode. Not a 5 Ampere fuse. Although this is more theoretical and chance of the wiring for the EPAS fuse circuit being different than the others are less – its a chance that car makers try to save every possible cent.<\/p>\n Its not the voltage – voltage for any car accessory will typically be 12V not more. Its the power and current draw that matters. Your accessory pulled more than 5 Amp current. (Still I don’t see why it blew a fuse that is for something else).<\/p>\n I’d suggest keep an eye, and in fact keep a spare fuse added back in your car. If the EPAS fuse blows again – go straight to the ASC (after removing that fuse tap) – and get it checked. I think the EPAS-Immobilizer cabin fuse is shared. There might be an actual malfunction in those circuits that could have caused the blow-out, if not a short circuit earlier.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n Read BHPian comments for more insights and information. <\/p>\n\n