I was very relieved to see the damage was minor and not youtube grade destructive.
BHPian lemedico recently shared this with other enthusiasts.
My 2021 Tiago AMT one morning gave me a massive sulk. I fired her up and after slotting into Drive, the wheel wouldn’t turn as it did. It was ancient truck-like and impossible to even drive up to my mechanic’s garage.
I have been an avid DIYer and I got around to fixing it immediately. One thing was for sure, there were no rat bites. I had already rummaged around the cabin and engine compartment to look for obvious signs of rodents.
There weren’t any fault codes or warning lamps on my OBD2 scanner or instrument console respectively. This was very weird indeed.
A few youtube video searches gave me diagnoses ranging from oil leak, and sensor failure to steering rack replacement and whatnot.
A few months ago, I created a rear 12v power socket for this car.
I had then fuse tapped the EPAS {electronic power steering assist} fuse for the wiring. Just last night, I had used my tyre inflator to top up air and I suspected maybe that did some damage.
I opened up the cabin fuse compartment, whacked out the fuse tap and voila, there was a blown EPAS 5A fuse! I was very relieved to see the damage was minor and not youtube grade destructive.
There are spare fuses in the engine fuse compartment. I simply swapped it out and the job was done. Lesson learnt, not to use such high voltage accessories in the rear socket.
Have a look at this video I recorded for your better understanding of the task
Here’s what BHPian Reinhard had to say on the matter:
This is a bit odd. If there was extra current drawn by the accessory socket – the fuse for the accessory should have blown in the tap (i.e. the one on top), not the EPAS fuse. I wonder why that happened. Was this the first time that you used that newly added socket? I wonder in case there was a short somewhere in the tap already.
Also – if the accessories that you intend to connect to that socket are powerful enough to draw more than 5Amp – you should ideally use a different primary fuse socket, that supports 10 or 15 Amp on Ignition mode. Not a 5 Ampere fuse. Although this is more theoretical and chance of the wiring for the EPAS fuse circuit being different than the others are less – its a chance that car makers try to save every possible cent.
Its not the voltage – voltage for any car accessory will typically be 12V not more. Its the power and current draw that matters. Your accessory pulled more than 5 Amp current. (Still I don’t see why it blew a fuse that is for something else).
I’d suggest keep an eye, and in fact keep a spare fuse added back in your car. If the EPAS fuse blows again – go straight to the ASC (after removing that fuse tap) – and get it checked. I think the EPAS-Immobilizer cabin fuse is shared. There might be an actual malfunction in those circuits that could have caused the blow-out, if not a short circuit earlier.
Read BHPian comments for more insights and information.
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