The speedboat sliced through the glassy waters of Boka Bay. A crown of granite-colored mountains surrounded me from every angle, and the red-tiled roofs from stony medieval villages peeked out from the sweeping shoreline. This was how the One&Only Portonovi gave me my first taste of Montenegro.
Boka Bay appears as though it has been lifted from the pages of a fairytale. The bay is shaped like a bow — wide on two ends with a narrow channel connecting them. From every angle, you have gorgeous views of the imposing Orjen and Lovcen mountains. The towns and coastlines around Boka Bay, sometimes referred to as the Bay of Kotor, have come to be known as the Montenegrin Riviera. And while at the far end of the bay you have the city of Kotor, a walled medieval city with centuries of history, my journey in Montenegro began at the small seaside town of Herceg Novi, a rising star in the luxury landscape thanks to the debut of the One&Only resort.
Location, location โฆ
The sprawling resort enjoys coveted real estate on a stretch of sandy beach on Boka Bay. With gorgeous landscaped grounds, sparkling turquoise pools, soaring ceilings and rounded archways, it’s easy to believe you’ve stepped out of reality and into a storybook palace.
In fact, the resort was designed to reflect the architectural style of the old Venetian palaces of the region. Guests lounge regally poolside at one of its many pools or sip fine Italian wines at the al fresco Italian restaurant Sabia while sampling southern Italian cuisine. On the other end of the resort, the Tapasake Club offers a more playful pool club atmosphere complete with DJs, sushi and a sake bar.
Each of the 123 guestrooms and suites is positioned for views of the marina, bay and mountains. Rooms are equipped with sleek, modern fireplaces, deep soaking tubs, floor-to-ceiling windows and spacious terraces. Bathrooms are equal in size to the bedrooms and double as a space where you can lounge thanks to plush sofas and spacious vanities. A cozy robe and a glass of Champagne create the most posh pampering experience.
Time to explore
But where the One&Only Portonovi really treats its guests like high society is in the service and its signature experiences. From the luxury med spa to private boat tours around Boka Bay and secluded forest hikes through the Orjen and Lovcen mountains, each experience makes guests feel like a VIP.
I was fortunate enough to try a little bit of everything. Starting with our speedboat tour of the bay, this is the perfect way to gain a sense of place. Our guide took us from the private dock of the resort to nearly every corner of Boka Bay. The tour even included a stop at the dreamlike Our Lady of the Rocks island in the center of the bay. The small, rocky island is home to a turquoise-domed church, whose origins date back to the 15th century. We also sped up to the doorstep of Kotor’s Old Town, and then over to Tivat, the original millionaire’s enclave along the bay, known for its luxury yachts, glamorous shopping and expensive restaurants.
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But my favorite experience was one that the hotel arranged for a deeper connection to Montenegro. Led by my guide Sasa, a local trail runner and master outdoorsman, I was taken up through the thick forests and over stony pathways that open up to breathtaking vistas over Boka Bay. The best part of the journey was what awaited at the end. The trail led to a 400-year-old village made entirely of stone, where i was introduced to a family who had lived in the village for generations. In fact, our host Nicola’s great ancestors were responsible for helping to construct the village, and he and his wife are among the few residents still left in the town today.
I was welcomed into Nicola’s home, where he and his wife had prepared a beautiful feast of cured meats and cheeses, salad, bread and homemade wine. This was all in addition to plenty of sips of the local spirit, rakija, a type of fruit brandy. Nicola gave me a tour of the village, from the house where he was born to the hut where they age and cure their own meat. It’s moments like these, where you can step away from the resort and learn about the people and place you are visiting, that are always the most luxurious for me.
Back at the hotel, wellness is an important pillar of its ethos. The
opulent spa is a collaboration with wellness brand Chenot, making the
One&Only Portonovi the first of the hotel collection to have a
Chenot Espace spa. The spa features traditional spa treatments and
stress-relieving therapies as well as med spa services. Guests can
receive a bespoke program with nutrition consultations, detox menus and
technical anti-aging treatments.
One&Only Portonovi made Montenegro come alive for me in ways that I do not think I could have experienced on my own. The service and hospitality are impeccable, the rooms and cuisine all five-star. But it’s the pride of the destination among the people who live there that really did it for me. I left feeling connected to this place. And when a hotel makes you want to come back for more, you know it did its job well.
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